Diary From the Galapagos Islands

This is a friendly note to let you all know that the following post is very very long. In fact, I am only halfway through right now and have already been tapping away at it for two hours. I feel compelled to warn you just in case you thought ¨Oh okay, commercials are on right now during Survivor, I think I may have time to quickly read this.¨ Well you don´t. So either get comfortable and settle into a good spot (snuggly cat optional), or tackle reading this post in parts. If anyone wants to skip the following and get a summary, here it is: ¨Galapagos Islands are AMAZING! The best place in the world, better than any manufactured Disneyland or Gringolandia crap!¨

Okay now for the non-lazy people, are you comfortable, are you ready? Okay, here we go...

Jan 6th Day One: Like Something Out of This World

Today we woke up at 5am, ready to start our Galapagos adventure. Glen and I were excited but groggy, after having spent the night before luxuriating in our hotel room. Overwhelmed with the fact that we actually had clean sheets, air-conditioning, cable television, and a working AND flushing toilet, we stayed in the hotel room like little piggies, watching television and gorging on room service. This GAP tour was off to a good start already.

We had met the group the night before and to be truthful, was a little apprehensive as to how we may gel with the others. There are 15 of us in total, including Glen and I. There were Dave and Annabel from Toronto, Lyle and Leanne from Vancouver, Kathy and Alison from Toronto, Michel and Nicole from Montreal, Joanna from San Francisco, and Kristian, Charlotte, Anna and Anders from Sweden. Ages ranged from 35 to 65 with the exceptions of myself, Anna, Anders and Glen. So apart from the fact that we were the lone Australians, we were also by far the youngest, with most of the other travellers older than our parents (Wow..that IS old. Hehehe...just kidding. Don´t hurt me)

We took the 830am flight with AeroGal, from the Mariscal Airport. By the way, Quito is quite a fascinating city. First of all, it´s surrounded by ice-capped volcanoes and mountains which makes for a seriously breathtaking view especially at 6am. Second, it is actually quite dry and cold which is a really nice change from sweltering heat and sweaty socks. Third, the buildings and churches (particularly in the Old Town) has been preserved for centuries, making the area a huge museum. Fourth, Ecuador has had nine presidents in ten years which I personally find rather amusing. Nearly a third of those presidents have been thrown in jail. Anyway, more on Quito in another post, back to Galapagos!

Anyway, the flight took three hours going through Guayaquil on the coast and then over the ocean. The flight from the coast to the islands took one and a half hours. By sea, it would be nearly two weeks.
The Galapagos Islands are an archipelago of 4 main populated islands, and a few bits and bobs scattered in between. It was discovered in the late 1400s, and visited by Charles Darwin in 1535 who gained inspiration to write his book ´Origin of The Species´. The story of the islands itself is purely unbelievable. Here are chunks of land mass thousands of kilometres off the mainland, populated by mainly birds, mammals and reptiles who flew, swam and floated over to start some kind of alien utopian colony in which they evolved into species not found anywhere else in the world. The animals are almost completely fearless. They all act like we´re nothing more than slightly bothersome paparazzi.
We flew into Baltra Airport, and then proceeded to take a bus, then boat, then bus, then boat again to our first island stay, San Cristobal. We were greeted at the airport by Tim, our guide for the week. Tim, or ´Tum´ from New Zealand was exactly what Glen and I needed. He was friendly, rugged, and rough as guts with a no-bull attitude. Somewhat LIKE an Australian....but not quite. Eh, close enough! The bus to Puerto Ayora (on Santa Cruz, the launch point from where we take the boat to aforementioned first island) was probably long and boring to most people, but absolutely captivating to me. The Islands are mainly arid and dry, but the terrains range from mountainous volcanoes, to small scalesia forests, to white sandy beaches. I stared out of the window for the whole 45 minute ride, watching the landscape literally transform before my very eyes. On the side of the island where Baltra is located, it looked strangely similiar to Western Australia with red sands and the dry scrub of the outback. As you continue to the other side of the island, it changes to red boulders, and wild cacti growing amongst rows and rows of stark, ghost white trees. It is literally nothing like I had ever seen in before in my life. I felt like we have arrived on Mars. I could feel that this was going to be one unforgettable week.

When we arrived in San Cristobal, we were transfixed by sealions basking on fishing boats, the harbour, steps of the pier, the beaches nearby, and well, anywhere really. They were everywhere, and completely oblivious to the activity going on around them. One looked at us and coughed disdainfully as if to say ¨Ugh. More pink hairless creatures. Yay.¨.

After settling into our hotel, we were taken mountain biking from the top of the island downhill most of the way. We had the bikes piled on the back of four truck taxis and driven up the hill. Glen and I found this extremely amusing, particularly after being in CRROBS for four months. If this was a CRROBS activity, Danny would´ve made us all pile into one truck, perhaps four lucky people can sit inside, while the other four would sit in the tray holding together eight rickety bicycles. That´s if we´re fortunate enough to get transport up the hill in the first place. Then he would probably stop halfway up the hill where the roads have collapsed under floods and we would have to swim across holding our bicycles over our heads, army style. Along the way, we would each need to pick up a rock alongside the road, and begin reconstructing the collapsed road in the 35 degree celsius heat. On the top, we would have a helmet each as CRROBS is excellent when it comes to safety. However, half our bikes would have working brakes, and the other half would be missing a seat. When it comes to flying down the hill, we would need to carry 20 kilogram packs on our backs and try to kick away the rabid dogs and hungry crocodiles along the way. If we complained, Danny would shrug and say: ¨Hey, this is Outward Bound man!¨, which we´d then need to shut up and continue trudging on our brakeless, seatless bicycles down a lethal breakneck hill with potholes the size of a giant tortoise. Pura vida man!

We finished the day with a group dinner and drinks. Later, ´Tum´ invited us to his mates house for some ´drunks´. The two guys who lived there were Kiwi surfers who, like most surfers, decided to fly out to catch some waves, and then somehow can´t remember why they haven´t left yet. This was about six months ago for them. One of the guys, James, said to me ¨Hey, you want to see something you´ve probably never seen before?¨ while pulling up the left leg of his boardshorts. Before I can retort ¨Well actually I have, and Australians are still bigger¨, I saw a massive bite scar on his thigh. It was unmistakeably the signature chomp mark of a shark. He had been paddling out on his board when a shark attacked him. Luckily, he managed to punch it in the nose which made it release him and swim away. His friends who were with him had to carry him to where he could get airlifted to the nearest hospital where he got 40 stitches. The bite missed any major arteries which was fortunate, so now he just has a really cool scar in which he will probably use to pick up girls until he´s well into his forties. After that, we walked back to our hotel and crashed for the night, a little apprehensive but excited over what will be instore over the next few days.

Wildlife report for the day: So far besides the sealions, we have seen two sea turtles mating, three curious and enormous land iguanas langorously bathing near landing planes at the airport, and blue-footed boobies fishing (What they do is fly around one area for a few minutes, and then suddenly twenty of them will stop and divebomb the water in such a synchronised and precise motion, the poor fish would have had no idea what was coming. I could´ve watched them all day).

Jan 7th Day Two: It´s Hammer Time!

Today was the day that we partake in the Galapagos´ favourite tourist activity - snorkelling!! Glen and I were a little bummed that we were not going to get a chance to go diving, but ´Tum´ assured us that snorkelling is just as good in the islands, if not better. We packed our wetsuits, flippers and snorkels and headed off on the ´Christine´, which is Tum´s boat (he named it after his mum! Bless!) towards Isla Los Lobos, or translation: Island Chockfull of Crazy Sealions. It was a beautiful day full of sunshine and clear skies. The water was a brilliant turquoise and seemed to glimmer with rays from the sun. We drew close to the island and immediately could hear the barking of sealions greeting us. After being given the ground rules, ie the baby sealions are extremely playful and will try to kiss snorkelers or nibble on their flippers. Try to ignore them if you can, and whatever you do, do not touch them. These animals have no fear of humans because noone has ever tried to harm or attack them, so it is imperative that it stays this way. So, they can touch you, but you can touch them. Really, it´s like being in a strip club. Also, the guide warned us that sealions are very pack-oriented. Wherever you see baby sealions or females, there is always the Big Daddy swimming around keeping an eye on you. They can move in the water 20 times better than you, and can weigh up to 150 kilograms. You do NOT want to mess with them.

We anchored twenty metres away from a beach where eight baby sealions were frolicking around. I couldn´t contain myself, I jumped out as fast as I could and swam towards them, while carefully keeping my distance. I was about two metres away from them and watched them scamper around each other, playing tag, and biting each others tails. They were irresistably cute. I had to practise a phenomenal amount of restraint to keep myself from lunging forward and sweeping one up in my arms to take home. We took pictures near the sealions as close as we could, and then set off swimming alongside the island. I looked back and the sealions were gone. Suddenly, a grey torpedo swam and twirled in front of me. Five more little torpedoes followed, swimming and barking softly underwater. The sealions were so inquisitive and curious that they followed us all around the island, swimming over and under us as if we were new play things. I was so overwhelmed by this experience. I had never thought in my life I would ever get to be so close to these animals. I looked at Glen and I knew he felt the same way. He squeezed my hand and we blew bubbles to each other, trying to express wordlessly on how we felt like the luckiest people in the world, being able to share this with each other.

Sadly, it was time to head off to the next place. After dragging myself sloooooowly out of the water, we motored to Kicker Rock, or Leone Dormido (Sleeping Lion). This was a massive volcanic rock that rose 150m out of the water and had a small 50m channel in between. The ocean floor was about 30 metres below us. Later I found out that the small channel was nicknamed ´Shark Alley´. And for good bloody reason too!

We battled our way along the rock against the current, marvelling at dinnerplate-sized fish and jagged rocks underneath. We made our way into the channel and swam through as a group. We swam for 10 metres, searching the waters below waiting to see whatever lurks beneath. To be honest, I was a little frightened. I hate not being able to see the bottom of wherever I´m swimming. After a while of staring, I popped my head up and saw everyone had done the same. Suddenly, Tum started waving and yelling the one word most people in the water dread to hear.

¨Shark!! Shark!! Come over here!!¨

We swam over and scanned the water below eagerly. One of the first to arrive, I looked down and saw nothing but blue abyss beneath. Pffft. What a gyp I thought.

Suddenly three HUGE hammerhead sharks swam gracefully under me. Less than three metres from my dangling feet, they cut through the water slowly. I screamed a little into my snorkel, but then willed myself to keep looking down. They were so beautiful. Each shark was at least 10 feet long, and as my eyes grew accustomed to the darkness of the water, I could see at least five more deeper below. All up, we were swimming above a school of 20 hammerhead man-eating yes MAN-EATING sharks. As if on parade, a school of Galapagos 2-metre long sharks followed closer to the surface. I turned my head as four large eagle rays caught my eye, flapping their wings slowly in the water. The whole group of us, young and old, turned into school children. ´Oh my god´ and ´You HAVE to come see this´ and ´I´m so excited I want to pee my pants but I am too scared that the sharks will eat me!´ were being shouted back and forth to each other. Tum, who has a certificate in underwater photography, commandeered our new digital camera and captured some amazing footage of the sharks and rays swimming. Glen has posted these videos on his Facebook. If you do not have Facebook, you may be able to track them on these links:

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1003649044953

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1003648724945

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1003648044928

You will need Flash Player to see them but it is so worth it. I shiver every time I look at these videos.

Alternatively, if you haven´t already, add Glen Innis as your Facebook friend and check them out there!

After Kicker Rock, Tum took us to a stunning beach - but then again, as I´m beginning to learn in the Galapagos, can we expect anything less than jaw-dropping gorgeous?

Wildlife report for the day: Truckloads of sealions and their babies, marine iguanas (endemic only to Galapagos, they evolved from the normal mainland iguana and have the ability to swim using their tails and stay underwater for up to one hour eating sea kelp. Sort of like evolution with the first fish growing legs and walking onto land, but in reverse), blue-footed boobies, frigates, pelicans, lava lizards, enormous fish including yellowfin tuna, Sally Lightfoot crabs, three different species of sharks and two species of rays (eagle and sting - yes, I kept my chest well away from those!)

Jan 7th Day Three: Getting Up Close and Personal

Today was another special touch of Paradise (Go Farnsey!). I feel incredibly lucky and happy to be alive on this trip. I am so blessed to be sharing it with Glen, my favourite person in the whole world, and I know he feels the same about me. From time to time however, I think of various people from home. Such as:¨Oh wow, Julie would love to take this picture¨, ¨Nigel would be having such a ball swimming with these guys¨, ¨Having the CRROBS group here would make this boat trip ten times better¨, ¨Mum would really enjoy this fish¨, ¨Dad would love snorkelling here¨, ¨Marcus and Evan would be laughing so hard at the word ¨Boobies¨ right now¨.

We packed up our luggage and left San Cristobal to go to Floreana Island for the night. Along the way, we stopped at two more sites for snorkelling. The first site was Enderby Inlet, a shallow area populated with frigates and boobies that would make any bird-watcher pass out from the sheer excitement of it all. It was mating season so the birds were in a preening frenzy. Male frigates puffed out their tomato red chests and danced awkwardly like Bunbury teenagers on too many Bundy and Cokes. Actually, it seems like love is in the air throughout the whole island as it was also mating season for the iguanas and giant tortoises, but more on that later.

Below sea level, breadbox-sized fishes (ie bigger than dinner plates but smaller than coffee tables) schooled in their hundreds past white-tip sharks resting and a magnificent eagle ray. There were huge yellow pufferfish resembling basketballs with eyes, and 1 metre-long parrotfish.

Once again, we were joined by another pack of curious sealions (Stalkers!) Three of them were only a few months old and thought we were the best thing since fish in a barrel. Glen was the last to get out of the water as a very playful pup wouldn´t leave him alone. It swam towards him and just as their noses were less than 30 centimetres away it would suddenly flip upside down and swim underneath him, looking up at his face with its big eyes. Glen began imitating this action and the pup would think he was just awesome. It kept swimming underneath him, looking up and blowing bubbles up at his face. He filmed a little of this, it is absolutely gorgeous.

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1003649484964

After this was Corona Del Diablo (Devils Crown), which were the remains of the top of a volcano left in a crown formation. The fish here was just as cool. I looked down and wondered why the bottom of the ocean floor was nearly black. Then I realised that the ocean was covered in schools of fish, or ´bait balls´. We took turns diving down to swim through these bait balls, and watched as the black whale-sized magically parted as we went into the middle of them.

Again, there were more sealions. It was like Family Day at the Sealion Colony. There were four pups, a female and a large male. The pups were beautiful, and this time it was my turn to play. They would swim up and over me, always staying less than 1 metre ahead so I can catch up. When I struggled against the current, they would effortlessly shake their tails and sit on the bottom looking up at me as if to say ¨Haha! Slowpoke! What´s the problem?¨. One swam up and stared me straight in the eye. We were nose to nose, only 10 centimetres apart. Another one would swim beneath me and blow bubbles at me. I would then try to manouveur myself underneath it and blow bubbles back.

Big Daddy was swimming slowly besides our group which was a little unnerving. He was massive. Outside of the water, I could´ve so taken him, but in the water, he would´ve tossed me around like a rag doll. He stayed close to his pups, but was not aggressive, just observant. I would turn my head and see him looking straight at me, watching what I was doing.

The pups also played in the bait ball. They swam in and out of it, scattering the fish in all directions. It was like watching children running through a flock of seagulls at the beach. They exuded the same fun loving energy as four year olds hyped up on red cordial.

After Devils Crown, we arrived in Floreana. This was populated by 150 people, which meant a scattering of houses, and one hotel. The islands´ history was fairly interesting. Centuries ago, pirates and whalers used the island as a hideout. They lived in limestone caves located at the top of the island, and left carvings in the walls that served as their fireplaces, shelves and dining benches. We visited the limestone caves, which was a bit of a labyrinth of rocks and grass.

Then we visited a reserve for giant tortoises imported from Santa Cruz. This was because the tortoises on Floreana were long wiped out by early settlers killing them for food and oil. The stories on how tortoises were treated are truly ghastly. Sometimes I feel ashamed for how humans can come along and wreck everything. There were 15 species of Giant Tortoises, and 4 species are now extinct. There was once 250 000 tortoises on Floreana, now they are all gone. There was a wealthy man who lived on Isabela Island who was known to have killed 200 000 tortoises in one year. His property was lined by a 20 kilometre road which he lined with empty shells, on each side. Considering that one shell is about one metre long, you can imagine how many tortoises was killed for a 20 kilometre road. Sniff. People suck.

Later, we drank beer (I had a shandy!) and watched the sun set in the horizon. Flames of red and orange streaked through the sky. It was like a slow motion fireworks display. Just a few metres from the shore, a randy sea turtle was having his way with four female sea turtles. Oh my.

Wildlife report for the day: Animals getting it on around us! Sea turtles, boobies, frigates! It was like Nature´s Playboy Mansion. We saw nothing new today, more marine iguanas and lizards and giant tortoises. Oh, and a herd of cows came bursting out of the limestone caves. That was a surprise!

Jan 8th Day Four: Isla Bella

We left after breakfast for Isabela Island. This was one of my favourite places in the Galapagos. It was such an idyllic place with more shops and restaurants and houses than Floreana, but still maintained an isolated local feel. Plus the scenery was just breathtaking. As we approached Isabela, we came across a giant blue marlin swimming across the surface of the water, schools of manta rays flapping past, and more sealions, pelicans and iguanas lazing on the nearby fishing boats. The water was glassy and aquamarine blue, while the sun shone through a cloudless sky.

The ´roads´ of Isabela was a soft white sand, clean enough to walk on with bare feet. We passed lush green groundcovers, dotted by giant cacti and trees blooming with hypercolour red and orange flowers. Children played on broken and abandoned wooden boats on the sides of the road, and waved as we walked past.

After settling into our hotel, we walked to the Tortoise Conservation Centre where they rescue and breed different species of giant tortoises. Once abundant, the giant tortoises are one of the most battered species who took a huge hit from humans. Apart from being slaughtered in their thousands, introduced animals such as wild pigs, goats, horses, dogs and fire ants became predators and fierce competitors for food. Considering that they only reach reproductive age at 25 to 30 years, and live to 150 years, their numbers diminished very quickly. Now, the centre hatches and protects them for 5 years until their shells are hard enough to protect them. This is one of the more successful conservation programs in the Galapagos, and probably also one of the more laborious. Their aim is to repopulate the islands to the same stages before humans arrived. Considering that the original population has been reduced by nearly 80 per cent, I´d say they still have a long way to go. Keep plugging away, guys!

From the Centre, we went to see the Wall of Tears. Now this was really interesting. Like most beautiful and wonderful islands discovered, the government decide to stuff it up by using it as a prison colony. In fact, this was attempted three separate times and failed each time until they finally gave up this silly notion back in the mid 1900s.

The Wall of Tears was built by the last colony. Essentially, the Wall was a punishment concocted by some of the most sadistic and wicked wardens on the island, or at least they must´ve been. The Wall is about 5 kilometres out of town, and is surrounded by rocks, cactus and sand. Very dry, and very hot. It is 9 metres high and 3 metres wide, and built with sharp and extremely heavy lava rocks. We lifted a small rock the size of a hamster, and it felt like holding onto a 4 kilogram pineapple. You could see in the Wall rocks of different shapes and sizes, one of the largest being the size of an armchair which wouldve required at least four men to lift. These convicts would have to hoist these rocks on their shoulders in the heat, and walk the 5k from town to place the rocks on the wall. The project took 13 years to build and needless to say, a few men lost their lives to the exhaustion or whipping from the foremen. Apparently they were worked especially hard, with beatings given to those who simply did not do a good enough job. In addition to this, there was a 5 metre high water tank that was say less than 2 metres in circumference and made out of iron. This was an additional punishment for the ´Bad Boy of the Week´ in which the ´winner´was placed inside for a day. with no food and water and protection from the heat. The Wall made me a little sad, all the wasted labour and resources and lives just as a ´punishment´. I guess it´s like having your teacher make you write lines on the blackboard, but much worse.

Wildlife report for the day: Marine iguanas mating - what is it with these islands? We saw mainly reptiles and birds today, but every 20 minutes there was some sort of animal activity. It never stopped here on this island. We also saw flamingos in a lagoon, which was kind of funny. They looked really out of place there, like they didnt belong there at all but the other animals were too polite to say anything about it.

Jan 9th Day Five: Walking into the Fires of Mordor

Isabela has four or five volcanoes on the island, of these, there are 3 active volcanoes. The last volcano, Cierra Azul erupted in 2005, and has a crater with the circumference of 25 kilometres, and 10 kilometres wide. Yes, that is a pretty damn big hole in the ground. So of course, Tim took us up there to poke around at it.

It was a good hike up, so myself, Anna, Kristian, and Charlotte decided to go on horseback. I haven´t ridden a horse for awhile, and we were greeted by these small half horse half mule creatures. My horse had foaled a few months ago, and was still nursing a little filly who followed us all the way up and back. It was kind of cute, I called it Shelby.

When we reached the top, we gazed into the crater. It was fascinating. There were cracks where steam vents had formed from the belly of the volcano, and black hardened lava everywhere. The landscape was blotched with yellow which were sulphur deposits left from the eruption. You could see in the distance, because we were so high up, clouds flowing into the craters like cream into a bowl.

We continued past the crater to see Volcan Chico, a parasite volcano formed from Cierra Azul. This was absolutely fantastic. It was like walking on the moon, with the ocean and green hills in the background. It looks exactly like a scene from Lord of The Rings, when Sam and Frodo walk through the desolate firey valleys of Mordor. The photo opportunities up here were simply amazing, and I doubt they could be replicated anywhere else in the world. There were steam vents in the ground that you could put your hand in and feel your flesh burning. Cactus hundreds of years old grew out of cracks. We passed crevices that looked like petrified waterfalls on the side where lava flowed and then cooled. We stood on a 50 metre lava wave that was covered in sulphur deposits and shiny fibreglass threads. It was unbelievable. I saw the photos later and cried because they looked so good.

We headed back after our climb up the volcano and relaxed on the beach for awhile. There was a beach volleyball court which gets crowded by locals and travellers alike everyday at 4pm without fail. We got there at 3pm to get in a few games before the crowds got there. It was a lot of fun, dipping and diving in the powdersoft sand. Afterwards, the locals got onto the courts and team challenges began. It was good watching them - everyone joined in, young and old, of all skill levels. It was just pure fun.

Anyway, we can only take so much good healthy clean fun, so we went off to the nearest beach bar for some Caipirinhas. Bar de Betos, a little bar famous for the best caipirinhas outside Brazil. It was really cool, we watched the sun set from wooden makeshift tables, and then danced and salsaed until we fell over in the sand. There was SOME misbehaving, but it was all good I promise.

Wildlife report for the day: Lots of lizards and iguanas up at the volcanoes, plus we saw quite a few Galapagos finches and a very mischievious mockingbird that showed up during our lunch.

Jan 10th Day Six: Heroes in a Hard Shell

Okay, I have to confess, by now I have been typing for nearly five hours. I am so impressed if people are still reading! Glen and I are starting to get hungry, being that it´s nearly 9pm so you might notice my entries getting shorter and shorter.

Today was the last day for snorkelling. Our guide and Tum took us to a beach where  we saw newborn sealions taking their first few steps on the beach. These guys were so cute, they were mewling at each other, but with BIg Daddy patrolling nearby and giving a new warning barks, I didn´t dare do more than take photographs. Part of our walk included trekking over volcanic rocks that were covered by marine iguanas basking in the sun. They were everywhere, so much so that I had to take extra care not to step on them by accident.

After this we went snorkelling through the lagoon as a group while the guide pointed out interesting sights and fishes. This was also where we saw sea turtles resting. These creatures were so majestic in the water, just slowly gliding through the water. One was the size of a coffee table.

We left Isabela reluctantly, sad to say goodbye to such a beautiful island. Next stop was Santa Cruz, two hours journey away. We arrived fairly late in the day, so we walked around and had coffee and burgers at one of the nearby restaurants. Santa Cruz is by far the most populated island in the Galapagos. You can tell how much tourism has affected this place by the multitudes of restaurants, bars, hotels, tour agencies and souvenir shops along the road.

WIldlife report for the day:  Lots of pelicans surrounding a bustling fish market where tables were covered with bright red bass, octopus and startled looking yellowfin tuna. More sealions. Oh and I saw two marine iguanas having sex.

Jan 11th Day Seven: Wanted - Partner for Lonesome George. Must be outdoorsy, funloving and a member of a specific subspecies of Giant Tortoise. Smokers need not apply. Blondes preferred

 

Today we met a celebrity. Lonesome George is the last surviving member of a subspecies of Giant Tortoise. He is now 105 years old, and there have been many valiant attempts to get him together with some hot attractive giant tortoises. There was even a ten thousand dollar reward for anyone who can find him a female to have his babies. Hey, for that kind of money, I´ll have his babies!

Lonesome George lives at the Charles Darwin Research Station at Santa Cruz. We went and saw more baby tortoises, and exhibitions on the conservation efforts on the island. At this point, after being exposed to all this raw and natural beauty of these islands and the animals, Glen is quite ready to ditch our comfortable lives and become a raging militant environmentalist. Can´t say I blame him. I´ve already vowed never to eat sharks fin soup again and say no to furseal leather car seats. If I ever see them that is. I just don´t know if living on a ship for months and ramming illegal Japanese whaling ships is the life for me, let alone for any small critters we might have along the way. Crazy.

After this, we visited the lava tunnels on the island. There was one in particular which was 300m long and got up to 20m high. It was dark and dank, but interesting. Lava tunnels are formed by gases in the flowing lava that remain trapped and escape through cracks once the lava has solidified. I took one photo every 4 metres. Oh dear.

We went to see an area where giant tortoises could roam free in the wild. These behemoths weighed up to 250kgs and was up to 130 years old. They were quite incredible. We walked up the hill towards our van, when Tum heard a low mooing noise. It was like this:

´Unk! MMMMMMMMMMM!´ then pause pause pause ´Unk! MMMMMMMMMMM!´

It was two giant tortoises getting it on. The male is twice the size of the female and has a concave underbelly. This is so he has the shape and the weight to keep her pinned while he does the dirty. You could hear him grunting from 100m away. Of course, we filmed it. Yes, we have tortoise porn. We were all gathered around watching him like the sick voyeurs we were. It was very entertaining!!

It was our last night together as a group with Tum, so we had a really nice dinner at a nearby restaurant. I had a tuna steak grilled on hot lava rocks. Yummy. Glen had steak, and 5 caipirinhas. It was a great dinner, and we went out after to see a band that Tum knows on the island.

Wildlife report for the day: Same old, plus bonus humping tortoises! Yay! Good day!

Jan 12th Day Eight: I Dont Want to Go, You Can´t Make Me

We packed up our belongings with a heavy heart this morning. Glen and I were unnaturally quiet as we both thought the same thing ´its not time to go yet´. I have loved this place so much, that I did not want to leave. I would cancel the rest of my trip, and spend the next three months in a volunteer program teaching English, and living in a homestay. Glen would be out at sea during the day with the Sea Shepherds, a militant environment organisation, spearing illegal shark fishermen and lopping off their feet.

We took a bus, boat and bus back to the Baltra Airport, with each phase of the trip mentally photographed in my head so that I can carry the memories around with me. I cried a little at the airport, I can´t believe how much this place has worked its magic on me.

This has definitely been one of the best highlights of Glen and my trip together. If anyone ever gets the chance to go to South America, do NOT miss the Galapagos Islands. It has certainly made me think twice about what exists out there, and also how our actions as a race have impacted the environment.

 

Wildlife report for the day: Two grasshoppers bonking outside my window. Geez, what IS it with this island?

Its now nearly 930pm, I am ravenously hungry and tired. I have been typing for over 5 hours now, and I am exhausted. I am also happy that I have written about this trip, not just for you guys, but also for us to remember.

If you have read all this way, congratulations and thank you so much for your patience and indulging me. Since you have persevered and read all the way to the end, here´s a secret for you.

LONESOME GEORGE IS GAY!

Shhhhh...don´t tell anyone, ok?

Love you guys
San

 

Comments

[Sandy and Matt]

Dear Glen snd Sandra,
Thanyou for the wonderful blog Sandra. You are so clever with your words, and I just wanted to keep reading what you had wrote. It was a great way to escape from everyday life and be transported into the most wonderful journey ever. So thankyou once again for that. It was certainly worth the five hours of typing!!
Now for the next item on my agenda. HAPPY BIRTHDAY BABY BROTHER!!!! Matt, Brock(bob), Blake and I all wish you a very happy birthday. Hope your 30th is a day to remember. Yes that's right you have reached the 30's. Feeling old yet. Now you should be in the same age group as the pensioners in your group!!!. Seriously, I hope you have a wonderful day, and no doubt you will both do something wonderful, and it will be something that you will never forget.
Another thing I wanted to mention, is that Sandra you are looking HOT!!! I hope you know how good your looking, oh yeah and Glen, your not lookin to bad either. Can't compliment you too much, you know that Sandra is my favorite out of the two of you!!
I loved the photo's, and honestly can't wait to see more. Though careful you don't turn into Mum and Dad. Otherwise I'll have to do the polite grunt and groan through all the photo's, while I'm really watching lawn bowls on the TV!! Joking Mum and Dad. Really do love you and your photo's.XXX
The boys and I are fine. Brock has worked a few days with Matt, and is feeling all growed up and responsible, and Blake is my little terror. He is always getting into trouble, though he knows what he is doing wrong. He has quite an attachment to Matt, actually both the boys do. Blake tormets Matt's dog, but she puts up with it. He pulls her tail, jumps on her and continuesly telling her to go to bed. She just grunts and walks along side him.
Can't say to much sbout Brock. He just goes with the flow. Had a bit of attitude from him when he come back from "a's", but I'll get through that. I have to, I'm his mum.
Oh yeah, I got bitten by a white tip spider. Not very nice, and it certainly does hurt. I had to get it cut out, as its eaten into my skin. The wound is about the size of a cloke bottle lid and is that deep into my skin. While the doctor was cutting the gunk out, I was more concerned about the scar that will be left behind!! I've gotta go to the doctors to get it redressed and packed everyday for the next week or so. Just another thing hey. There you are, on the other side of the world, where there are alot more risks of animals attacking you, and I get bitten in sleepy old Mandurah!! Though I'll be right, just gotta keep moving on.
Matt is good and he sends his love. We've moved into his house, and the kids have settled in really well. We might still be here when you get back, but hopefully not. Find out hopefully on the 6th Feb.
Spose I'd better go, or otherwise I'll be on here for the next five hours.
Once again, HAPPY 30TH BIRTHDAY Glen. Love you very much. Wish I could be there to celebrate it with you.
Lots of love and kisses to you both.
Sandy XXXXXX

[Kim]

Just wanted to say that I was enjoying my trifle dessert whilst looking through the Cartegena photos until I opened the second pic of your hubby in your bikini!!!!! Marcus was with me too.....and I don't have money for counselling at the moment!!!! Thank you.